For days together the tarantasse will then roll past the same description of coarse grass, ungainly to look upon, but on which the sheep thrive admirably, and which is said to give to Tartar mutton a delicious flavor that the travelled epicure vainly looks for in the gorgeous restaurants of Paris, or in that joint-stock association of comfort and luxury, a London or New York club.
see more - The Steppes of Southern Russia
Sears, Robert. An Illustrated Description of the Russian Empire. New York: Robert Sears, 1855